![]() Are you saying you don't think a MP60 would have enough power to cover 8'? I've seen a few out and about and it seemed they move a massive amount of water. I like the Vortechs because there are no cords in the tank and the controllability with Apex. There isn't going to be a closed loop, so I will be relying on powerheads for water movement. Without 4-5 MP40s lining the back glass you will have lots of dead spots in the center. I'll try to snap a picture sometime soon so you can see the setup or if its a slow day at work, you can peruse the 99 pages of my build thread and see it for yourself.Īlso, for an 8' Tank, Vortechs won't cover that ground. That's why I opted to vent all heat and moisture outside. Granted, my house is almost 40 years old so the taping on the drywall may not hold up as well as a newer home but I've seen plenty of evidence of moisture related damage in my 1800 sq ft home. I still think T5s give the best color rendition on SPS and to me, the ultimate for coloration would be a T5/hybrid light, much like the ATI hybrid light Juiceman mentioned.Īir conditioners will process a lot of the humidity but if yours isn't constantly running (for instance mine runs less during the day) and during the Spring/Summer when it hardly runs at all, you'll get a build-up of moisture in the house. The successful SPS dominant tanks with them are few and far between whereas there are a ton of successful SPS tanks with MH, T5, Radions, and to a lesser degree, the Ocean Revive fixtures I use. This is based from personal observation of other tanks I've seen and also other's experiences with them. ![]() but I think they are overpriced and probably not the lighting I'd go with for a SPS-dominant tank. They can keep LPS and softies happy, and some SPS keepers have success with them. I'm planning on using an AI Sol Blue I have lying around to light it. Yes, that extra bay will be a frag tank and will also have some miracle mud underneath the frag rack. Since valves are relatively inexpensive I will probably add them. From what I have read the durso and emergency drains don't need valves, but they can be added if you want more control. The siphon drain on the bean animal will have a gate-valve to control the flow. ![]() That's a good idea, I will move the manifold over the sump. A possible thought to consider when you're going this big. Not wanting to see what a 215-gallon could do, I made it a point to vent the air from my cabinet/canopy to the outside. acute signs of moisture damage from evaporation from my saltwater tank even with my old 125-gallon. Just a quick note on these larger type tanks, I've noticed in my house. If you plan on going SPS dominant anytime soon, I'd go with different LEDs or supplement the BMLs with other lights instead of investing more in them. What's the extra bay in the sump with the diverted line from the return pump for? Frag tank? Refugium?įor the skimmer, I'm happy with my Skimz 201 for my 250 gallon total water volume.įor lighting, I like that plan for a mixed reef. You can probably just run with true union connections with integrated valves for that. Also, I'd add valves to your drains so you can fine tune them if needed. You can always run the tubing to where the reactors are but I like to originate the connections over the sump to account for Murphy's law. Also, any thought to external overflow?įor your plumbing, if at all possible, I like to have the manifold over the sump in case there are any leaks.
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